This was provided by
the all-knowing s1ug on the forums. Many thanks to him.
This assumes user is competent with tools, has the service manual,
and sufficient mechanical aptitude to complete the task. This is in no way a substitute
for the service manual, and serves as a guide only.
Loosen fork caps with fork on bike. Attempt to loosen lower bolt as well, just
break it free.
forks from bike.
- If you
were able to break the lower bolt free, remove it and drain the fluid out into
fork tube into the outer tube. Push spring down a bit, and use wrenches to get
the cap locknut loose.
cap and washer and spring. Remove the center rebound rod, and remove the locknut.
you were unable to remove the lower bolt, then flip fork upside down and drain
the oil out.
"special tool" into fork, into the recess made for it.
the bolt is removed, withdraw the rebound piston assembly
the upper dust seal, and remove the retaining clip.
time for the fun part. Use the inner tube as a slide hammer, grasp it and work
it outwards a few times until the fork tube slider bearing comes out. Then entire
fork inner tube ought to come out, with the old seals.
everything, flush with fresh fork oil of the desired weight. Clean everything.
the slider bearings, they ought to look uniform colour and coating should be same
all the way around.
There is one on the lower end of fork leg, and one that
you just drove out of the top.
one on the left you can see the edges (top) are worn out. This is time for new
everything is clean, and all the parts are clean, and your hands are clean, insert
the fork inner tube into outer tube. Make sure it smoothly bottoms out, and slides
freely. If it binds at ALL you need to replace either the slider, the inner tube
or (heaven forbid) the outer tube. I had 2 outer tubes that were no good.
this point, place the new (or good old one) slider bearing onto the tube. Place
the flat washer that rides on it in as well. Then use suitable driver to drive
that part into place, until it is flush. I used an old bent fork tube, cut the
bent parts off and used it as my tool. It boasts a totally smooth interior, and
the proper diameter to work well for the task.
needed I can mail one out as a loaner, kinda the yzf600r-usa fork seal driver
the rebound assembly, and tighten the lower nut as much as possible (or to torque
spec in manual if using "special tool".
the washer back in place over the slider bearing.
SURE FORK LEG IS CLEAN AND SMOOTH
new oil seal, pre-lubed, (service manual says to use a lithium soap based grease
or equivalent; I used Valvoline synthetic high temp grease) onto the fork. Make
sure the writing is visible from the top.
old seal and trusty fork leg to drive it into place. You should then be able to
place the retaining clip in place.
you want to drive the new dust seal into place. This will protect the new oil
seal from damage from dust and debris.
repeat previous steps on the other fork.
my next trick, I placed both forks in a vice (soft shoes of course). Then I added
the same amount of liquid to both forks, approx 10-12 ounces by postal scale.
You may need to add more.
the fork tube and the rebound assembly many many times to get all the air out.
Do not stroke too far or you may ingest air into the fork again.
it is time to set the level. I CAPPed* a tool to make it very close with little
or no effort. Use a piece of tubing on a t-handle allen wrench (CLEANED of course).
*Thats Cheap A$$ Penny Pincher
the desired liquid height below the top of the allen wrench T handle. Then insert
the T handle and tube into the fork, all the way to top of the fork leg. Withdraw
plunger on premix syringe, and when it sucks air, you're done. Move to the other
leg and repeat.
a scale, measure the fluid height. Mine came out pretty much dead on.
fluid height is set, it is time to assemble. Insert inner rebound tube, fork spring,
and washer. Place locknut on top of rebound shaft. Measure 12mm of thread from
end of shaft to top of the nut. This sets the bias for your rebound damping adjustment.
cap onto the rebound shaft, and then tighten the locknut.
cap is installed, torque it properly, and set your suspension settings to stock
levels (or your previous settings) Install forks, and doublecheck that everything
is tight and dry.
bike, and yer done!
may be some ommitted steps, as such the performer is cautioned to always use the
proper service manual. This how-to is a guide only, not the exact procedure. I
have added photos that I thought to be helpful, and hope this gives an idea of
the scope of the job.
If anyone DOES note a missed or omitted step, please
let me know so I can add it in ;P