Chain replacement, very straight forward, just takes a few special tools.. I recommend the motion Pro chain breaker/riveter kit. It has all the necesary tools to remove and install a riveted masterlink chain. (It can also do camchains, NOT covered in this section as I've not done that yet )
1. Support bike in upright condition with the rear wheel off ground. Use either a rear wheel stand or another means of sturdy support. Removing the left side fairing is not required, but makes it easier, especially if you don't have a short allen key set.
2. Use a cord or bungee to hold the front brake tight. Repeat for the rear brake lever. Remove the shift lever and the front sprocket cover.
3. Using a 10mm wrench, loosen the bolt, then pull the shift linkage straight off.
4. Use a screwdriver to un-bend the lockwasher. Then put the bike in gear and remove the front sprocket nut.
5. Loosen both chain tension adjusters all the way. Now release the rear brake.
6. Remove the axle nut and kick the
back tire all the way inward to loosen it up.
7. Using a rubber faced mallet, tap the axle bolt flush with the swingarm. Insert a socket just slightly smaller than axle into the hole and use it to push axle the rest of the way in. Only push enough socket in to hold brake caliper assembly up, about 1.5 inches to 2 inches should be plenty.
8. Support the rear wheel and remove the axle from the left side of the swingarm all the way.
9. Push the tire forward a bit, unloop the chain from the sprocket, then remove the wheel completely.
10. Situate the socket to hold the rear caliper on for stability.
11. Using a chain breaker tool, select a likely victim (chainlink) and assemble the breaker around the chosen link's pin. Tighten the breaker tool until the link pin comes out the other side. Remove the breaker tool and the chain should come apart.
**note the end of the link protruding from back of the tool**
12. Pull the chain out and put it aside. Place the new chain alongside the old to verify the length is as needed.
13. Remove the front sprocket and install the new one. Put a new lockwasher and the nut back on. (Yamaha says to ALWAYS use new lockwasher) Tighten it down to 50ftlbs of torque. You will probably need to wait until rear wheel is back on to do it. Either way, you need to bend the lockwasher back up when it is torqued in place.
14. Remove the old rear sprocket and install the new rear sprocket. Torque to 43ftlbs using a star pattern. Use Locktite! (blue)
15. Feed the new chain from the top, around the front sprocket, to rear of the swingarm.
16. Get the new master link out of
package (it should come with the new chain). ENSURE your hands are clean and
your work area has means of wiping hands on clean towels. Preventing dirt form
getting into your new chain is paramount.
17 Lube up the new masterlink with
the provided lube. Lube inside of both ends of the chain. Ensure you lubricate
the 2 o-rings well and place them on the master link. Insert the masterlink
into the chain, add 2 more o-rings and finally use rest of the lube to lube
that side and sideplate.
18. Now get your chainpress tool
ready. Put sideplate link on then use the chain press to push the sideplate
onto the masterlink. Ensure you do NOT tighten it down too much! It should be
just barely wider than the adjacent links (riveting will tighten it up the rest,
VERY VERY little bit)
19. Remove press attachments and place the riveting tool in. Center the riveter on one of the posts of the new link. Tighten it down until it is tight (you will know, trust me); then repeat for the other one. You should only use the provided handle, this ensures you don't break anything, ie: Don't use a 12" breaker bar on the tool or try to torque it to death.
20. Ensure chain link at the masterlink rotates smoothly, it should be no looser or tighter than the other links.
21. Replace the rear tire. It is easier to release the rear brake caliper and get it lined up with spacer once the tire is in place but before attempting to raise rear tire assembly for axle installation.
22. Once the axle is installed, adjust the chain tension. Slack should be about one inch measured in middle, under the swingarm with the top of the chain tight. This measurement is with both wheels on ground and NO RIDER. you could also place the bike on a swingarm stand as this weights the rear suspension like the tire was on the ground.
23. Tighten the rear axle nut to 85 ftlbs.
24. Apply rear the brake and finish torqueing the front sprocket nut to 50ftlbs. Ensure you bend the tab up on lockwasher. Losing a sprocket nut sucks!
25. Re-install the front sprocket cover. Ensure you use blue Locktite on the bolts.
Note: that is important! Now you can re-install the shift lever.
26. Now you can go for a ride and check for abnormal noises. Don't go out all crazy either, just cruise around to double check everything. It will make more noise then you are used to for a hundred or so miles. This is the noise created by the sprockets and chain meshing together properly.
27. After riding it a bit, clean
the chain and lube with your favorite lubricant. (and no, KY is NOT recommended,
keep that in the house!)