Yup, I do the work so you don't have to. In all fairness, others on here have done this before me, but mine worked out really well and cost $6.72...but you can do it for $3.36 (maybe). Also, just so you appreciate what I've done more, it actually did take a lot of time, a pattern, a prototype set ("proof of concept") and the final pieces. I'm including the pattern (you'll need to print it out), the material you need (just one thing!), tools, how-to install, and you can do this in about an hour (really, although it might take you longer to read this...my directions make it seem more complicated, but I'll summarize it: print and cut-out the pattern; cut up the file folder material; trace the pattern; cut out the two pieces (remember to make mirror images!); jam them inbetween the fairing and the inner fairing pieces; go ride).
And, IMVeryVeryVeryHO, it's worth it.
Why did I do this? Because I moved from So.Cal. to Central Oregon in early fall and discovered that there are LOTS of very cold riding days but that even my insulated gloves and electric handwarmers set on high weren't enough to keep my hands warm. So, here it is:
The "Parts" (really it's just the label on a piece of leftover scrap material):
sharp scissors, a sharp utility knife (seriously, will you please put in a new blade?), Sharpie (regular point, black, red, or blue), medium length (4"-6" shaft) #2 screwdriver, a piece of cardboard (to do the cutting without scoring up your dining room table, ya' frickin' Neanderthal!), rubbing alcohol,a paper towel, and coffee or beer or... :-)
1) Purchase the HQ Advance 7 Pocket Expanding File (hqadvance.com), Item 24158, UPC 0 79184 24158 5. I bought mine at the local Fred Meyer store for $3.36, made my prototype, then bought a second one to make the final pieces. Note: you'll be using the shiny side as the "exterior," so be sure to get one that hasn't been scratched up (the "interior" side has a low, diagonal surface). This isn't the sturdiest or hardest material, but it is the right stiffness for making these and this color? Blends right in if you have a blue YZF. Plus, it's so cheap that if you don't like it (or mess it up), it probably cost you less than whatever you order at Starbucks. The folders do come in other colors.
Alternatively, you could go with "titanium" and use a Pendaflex 7 Pocket File, Item 52370, UPC 0 78787 52370 8, but it'll cost you a whopping...$6.21 (at Fred Meyer). What's the difference? It's made of thicker plastic and each side has a very fine, "pebble grain" surface (not totally smooth) and one side is black and the other is whatever color you choose. The one I am returning (since it worked with the cheaper one) is silver on one side, black on the other, so that could work with a lot of different YZF paint schemes (including blue).
2) The Pattern: Print this out on an 8"x11" sheet of paper--the two curved lines should stretch the full length of the page (the line that goes to the corner actually stops about 2-3mm above the actual corner of the page), otherwise it's printed too small and the proportions are wrong. Carefully cut out both pieces right on the *inside* edge of the lines. The wider end is the bottom of the deflector. The small piece should be taped on to the top of the pattern. That's the whole pattern, it's the same for both sides of the fairing.
3) Peel off the label from the front of the file, remove the elastic cord, and remove the plastic "button" (it's 2 pieces that just pull apart). That's the easy part of the material prep. Note: I didn't just tear out the interior accordion file section because I decided to keep it to use and put a piece of duct tape on the bottom afterwards and had a quick 5 section file folder. DIY, baby!
3) Fold open the top and cut it off with the utility knife (making a nice, straight line) a few of the "fold scores" up--you'll have a big, mostly flat piece, curved at one end and 90-degrees on the other three sides (I'm making this way more complicated sounding than it is. I promise I'll get training as a technical writer before I write up another project here.)
4) Now, CAREFULLY: using the utility knife, cut the outside off from the accordion section. Then, with either the knife or scissors, cut off the edges of the remaining bits of the accordion section (it's heat-bonded to the material, so it won't just neatly pull off). Is this making sense? So, at this point, you have the piece from the above paragraph, and now a double-length piece (but slightly narrower but don't worry about that. One 1/2 of this big piece has the heat-bonded label pockets--this is the 1/2 that you *won't* be using. So cut off the other half at least 4 or so "score lines" up or else it'll be too small. If you take the pattern, you'll see how it will fit each of the two pieces of material.
5) Now, you're going to trace the pattern on each of the pieces using the Sharpie (don't worry about marking up the plastic). REMEMBER: you need to FLIP OVER THE PATTERN (because it's not symmetrical) from one piece to the other because, as previously noted, the material is smooth on one side and textured on the other. Otherwise, you'll have one with the smooth side facing out and one with the textured side facing out. Don't. Do. That.
6) With the knife or the scissors (I think the scissors is quicker, easier, makes a better curve, and less prone to veering off course) cut out each deflector from the material. Try to make smooth curves (it's harder to trim it smoothly after you've cut it out) and don't panic if you don't follow the lines to the millimeter but do not make it BIGGER--it won't work (that's my conclusion from the prototypes, but do what you want, what do I know? I'm just the loving stranger who (didn't) raise you...). Really--they are big enough to do the job. The more curved edge is the leading edge of the deflector that will be inserted into the fairing.
7) Put a little rubbing alcohol on the paper towel and wipe off any remaining Sharpie ink from the deflector pieces. You should now have two deflectors that look like this (sorry, the photo got a little cut-off on the left):
8) Take the screwdriver and remove the air intake covers on the front fairing (the pieces below the handlebars, each has three screws). Now loosen (don't remove) the screw that holds the gauge fairing piece that was hidden under the front edge of the air intake cover, and also loosen the exposed screw on the gauge fairing piece above that. Loosen the two screws that hold on the "upper-inner" fairing cover on either side of the windscreen. TIP: if you haven't worked on your bike before, you'll need to move the bars around a bit to get the proper screwdriver angle on each screw head.
9) Inserting the deflectors: it doesn't matter if you do the right or left one first but I'm describing doing the left side, so just do the opposite steps for the right. Hold the left deflector so the shiny side is facing you and the narrow end (the top) is at the the top. This will be inserted between the outer fairing and the upper-inner fairing covers so that the rear edge disappears behind the outer fairing right below the middle of the mirror bracket. Now, carefully jam (I know, that seems like an oxy-moron) the rest of the leading (curved) edge of the deflector piece between the outer fairing and the inner fairing covers (this will take a little effort because you're forcing a flat piece of to conform with a compound curve). The rear edge of the deflector at the bottom will disappear behind the outer fairing about 1" past the bottom of the gauge fairing. Insert it enough that you cannot see the top and bottom corners of the deflector piece and so there is no gap between the outer fairing and deflector at any point (especially right at the leading edge where the curve of the fairing is sharpest). Now, carefully, starting at the top, tighten each of the four screws you loosened. Now. carefully replace the air intake covers and tighten up those three screws. If the deflector has moved (a corner is showing or there's a gap between the fairing and the deflector), just carefully jam it back in. Unless you pull on the deflector, it will stay in place. Now do the other side.
10) Congratulate yourself on a job well-done (and on having read this entire how-to!).
This is how it should look after:
As you can see, even if you know the YZF, it's reasonably subtle and unobtrusive. Also, they work (very effective) and they will stay in place at highly felonious speeds.
Caveat: the upper curve will probably deflect down about 1/2" once you go north of 55mph, but no more than that. When the bars are turned to full-lock while you're wearing your gloves, there will be slight contact with the deflectors and your hands and also just a bit with the ends of the levers, but not enough to disengage the clutch or activate the front brakes. Safety first!