How-to Master List

This is where keep all the step-by-step How Tos to get you through that project.

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Postby MoMan » Sun Feb 24, 2008 9:32 pm

Nose Fairing section assembling how-to:
http://www.yzf600r.com/phpBB2/gallery/F ... assembling
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Postby BeWary » Wed Apr 02, 2008 10:00 pm

Since Tdah's having trouble editing the original post, I'll post my finds:

Coolant change:
http://www.yzf600r.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21498

Label/sticker removal:
http://www.yzf600r.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=37416

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Re: How-to Master List

Postby FAtman57 » Wed Jun 04, 2008 10:39 am

THIS POST IS ORIGINALLY FROM MOMAN... I had a question regarding the balance of my tire(s) here is what he had to say...

My first check would be a simple balance check. You can do that at the house if you have a set of jack stands. Gets some of those flat bar weights from the parts store. The ones you can break into 1/4oz pieces.
I spoke with an Avon rep last year to find out if they use a mark on the tire for mounting reference. They don't. More on that later.
Pull the tire.
Set the jack stands close together and orientated so the axle can sit on both.
Put the axle through the wheel.
Set the wheel/axle between the jack stands so the axle rest on the stands, but not on the threads.
Let me grab a couple of pictures. Be right back....

I had to pull the rear wheel for a patchin' yesterday because of a big ole nail.

General setup:
stand1.jpg


Stands are up high enough so the tire will move freely and the axle is NOT on the threads:
stand2.jpg


Roll the wheel back and forth a couple of times to make sure any stiction in the bearings is freed up.
Slowly roll the wheel and allow it to come to rest. The heavy side will stop at the bottom. Mark it. Slowly roll it again to make sure the resting point is repeatable.
Using masking tape, tape a 1/4oz weight to the wheel at the top (the light spot) by the middle rib of the wheel. Slowly roll it again.
Add weight a piece at a time. Alternate side to side of the middle of the wheel rib.
You want to roll it and have it come to rest with the valve stem at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock.
balance.jpg



Once you get it where the balance is neutral, pull the sticky back and stick the weights on the wheel. Keep them as close to the middle rib of the wheel as possible and alternate the weight on each side (if you use more than one 1/4oz piece).

Back to balancing the tire when you get it mounted.
I use the same shop every time. They do not have a spin balancer adapter for moto wheels. So, I take my stands and axles with me. The guy gets the tire on the wheel, I set them on the stands and we see how the balance is. We rotate the tire on the wheel until we get the balance pretty close. Ex: The rear wheel doesn't require any weight at all.
Then he inflates and seats the tire on the wheel. I do a final balance check at the house before I mount them.
It's nice to get to know the guys at the shop.


He actually went out and took pictures of the set up during the message!! :+1
I hope you don't mind me posting this up on the "how to" but it was just too damn good not to!

Certainly top drawer Rich!!! :ok
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Re: How-to Master List

Postby RatherBRiding » Wed Jun 04, 2008 11:46 am

FAtman57 wrote:THIS POST IS ORIGINALLY FROM MOMAN... I had a question regarding the balance of my tire(s) here is what he had to say...

My first check would be a simple balance check. You can do that at the house if you have a set of jack stands. Gets some of those flat bar weights from the parts store. The ones you can break into 1/4oz pieces.
I spoke with an Avon rep last year to find out if they use a mark on the tire for mounting reference. They don't. More on that later.
Pull the tire.
Set the jack stands close together and orientated so the axle can sit on both.
Put the axle through the wheel.
Set the wheel/axle between the jack stands so the axle rest on the stands, but not on the threads.
Let me grab a couple of pictures. Be right back....

I had to pull the rear wheel for a patchin' yesterday because of a big ole nail.

General setup:
stand1.jpg


Stands are up high enough so the tire will move freely and the axle is NOT on the threads:
stand2.jpg


Roll the wheel back and forth a couple of times to make sure any stiction in the bearings is freed up.
Slowly roll the wheel and allow it to come to rest. The heavy side will stop at the bottom. Mark it. Slowly roll it again to make sure the resting point is repeatable.
Using masking tape, tape a 1/4oz weight to the wheel at the top (the light spot) by the middle rib of the wheel. Slowly roll it again.
Add weight a piece at a time. Alternate side to side of the middle of the wheel rib.
You want to roll it and have it come to rest with the valve stem at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock.
balance.jpg



Once you get it where the balance is neutral, pull the sticky back and stick the weights on the wheel. Keep them as close to the middle rib of the wheel as possible and alternate the weight on each side (if you use more than one 1/4oz piece).

Back to balancing the tire when you get it mounted.
I use the same shop every time. They do not have a spin balancer adapter for moto wheels. So, I take my stands and axles with me. The guy gets the tire on the wheel, I set them on the stands and we see how the balance is. We rotate the tire on the wheel until we get the balance pretty close. Ex: The rear wheel doesn't require any weight at all.
Then he inflates and seats the tire on the wheel. I do a final balance check at the house before I mount them.
It's nice to get to know the guys at the shop.


He actually went out and took pictures of the set up during the message!! :+1
I hope you don't mind me posting this up on the "how to" but it was just too damn good not to!

Certainly top drawer Rich!!! :ok


I use almost this exact method. I'd add that I use a couple of free spinning bearings on the jack stands with the axle going through them. This takes the friction of the wheel bearings out of the equation and I get a more accurate balance since I starting using them than before when I just set the axle on the jack stands.

Just my .02
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Re: How-to Master List

Postby MoMan » Wed Jun 04, 2008 1:36 pm

RatherBRiding wrote:I'd add that I use a couple of free spinning bearings on the jack stands with the axle going through them. This takes the friction of the wheel bearings out of the equation and I get a more accurate balance since I starting using them than before when I just set the axle on the jack stands.

Very good idea if you have a couple extra bearings laying around. :ok
I reckon I'll have to call the bearing lady over at Applied. :)
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Re: How-to Master List

Postby RatherBRiding » Wed Jun 04, 2008 3:03 pm

Yea, I think I bought mine locally for about $10. I took the dust covers off, cleaned all the grease out and now I keep them in a tub full of WD-40 so the won't rust or freeze up on me. They work great and I've had them for 5 or 6 years.

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Re: How-to Master List

Postby digitallove421 » Tue Jul 01, 2008 8:53 pm

does anyone have a link to how to get to the air filter, I know its under the gas tank I just want to see how to get the fuel line off without fucking it up?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBV7lSytSl0 my bike
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Re: How-to Master List

Postby MoMan » Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:27 pm

Reference the carb removal how-to.
I guess the main thing you're after is to get the tank off, right?
viewtopic.php?t=38920
'01,'97,'98,'00,'03,'05,'06 Flat Silver/Black
The MoMan Machine (changes are coming)
"I know a little.....and guess the rest" :huh
May the "cheapness" be with you :ok
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Re: How-to Master List

Postby digitallove421 » Wed Jul 02, 2008 12:38 am

MoMan wrote:Reference the carb removal how-to.
I guess the main thing you're after is to get the tank off, right?
viewtopic.php?t=38920


pretty much
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBV7lSytSl0 my bike
Deceptikons riding club
black Cat
titanium leo vince slip on
ZG double bubble
galfer front and rear SS lines.
pazzo shorty levers (model F-14/ Y-688)
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Re: How-to Master List

Postby MoMan » Sun Jul 20, 2008 7:14 am

Fairing screw placement thread:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=45563
'01,'97,'98,'00,'03,'05,'06 Flat Silver/Black
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"I know a little.....and guess the rest" :huh
May the "cheapness" be with you :ok
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Re: How-to Master List

Postby MoMan » Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:09 pm

Choke Lever Assembly removal and install:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=45868
'01,'97,'98,'00,'03,'05,'06 Flat Silver/Black
The MoMan Machine (changes are coming)
"I know a little.....and guess the rest" :huh
May the "cheapness" be with you :ok
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Re: How-to Master List

Postby MoMan » Sun Aug 31, 2008 7:49 am

Here's one I had to search for this weekend:

Cooling Fan Manual Switch Mod (thanks 97Cat):
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=17128
'01,'97,'98,'00,'03,'05,'06 Flat Silver/Black
The MoMan Machine (changes are coming)
"I know a little.....and guess the rest" :huh
May the "cheapness" be with you :ok
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Re: How-to Master List

Postby MoMan » Sat Sep 06, 2008 8:22 am

Carb Ram Air Hose Plumbing

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=46632
'01,'97,'98,'00,'03,'05,'06 Flat Silver/Black
The MoMan Machine (changes are coming)
"I know a little.....and guess the rest" :huh
May the "cheapness" be with you :ok
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Re: How-to Master List

Postby TJSupercool » Fri Nov 07, 2008 3:18 pm

Does anyone have a "how to" on replacing and also on how to lubricatine the throttlewire?? Mine is kind of "sticky"..

It will not "return" properly.. I sometimes have to turn the throttle forward to make the revs drop, and when I pull the clutch when driving, the engine will not drop it`s rpms... I thought I would try to lubricate it, test it, and if it that doesn`t help, replace the wire..

Anyone?
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Re: How-to Master List

Postby realwrld » Sat Nov 08, 2008 9:11 am

read through this:
http://www.yzf600r.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=47282&p=567390#p567390

To start, undo the throttle cable housing at the right handle bar to expose the cable ends:
Slide the rubber boot to the left. You may need to squirt a little lube onto the cables/into the boot to ease sliding the boot over.
Remove the two phillips head screws on the back of the throttle housing (don't lose them).
You should now be able to separate the two halves of the throttle hosing.
Set the two halves aside.
Remove the cable ends from the throttle tube (grip) assembly "wheel". Pay attention to which cable goes where.

Lube the two cables.
Squirt some lube down the inside of the cables. The lube will run out the other ends, on top of the carb assembly (where you won't be able to see it unless you've got the fuel tank/air filter assembly off, or stand on your head to look up into the engine area at the back of the 2 center cylinders).

Work the cables in and out each time you squirt lube in, to make sure they're getting lubed from one end to the other.

The baggie method of lubrication would probably work just fine, too. Even one of those fancy-schamcy cable lube gizmo's would work. I'm a CAPP so I just cram the straw betwen the cable and sheath and squirt away - a little bit at a time, several times.

Reassemble in reverse order:
Put the cable ends back into the throttle grip assembly "wheel"- make sure you put the correct cable end in the correct place.
Place (hold) the front half (the half nearest the rider's position) of the housing back on the handle bar.
Place the throttle tube assembly/cables back into that half.
(and don't break off the little plastic tabs on the curved ends of the cable sheaths)
Place the other half of the housing over the throttle grip assembly/cables.
(you might wish you had three hands at this point)
The housing only goes back onto the handle bar a certain way, as there's locating pins/holes to guide you. You might have to rotate the assembly to get everything to the right place.
It's not necessary to force the fit, at all.
Replace the two screws on the back of the housing.
Slide the rubber boot back to the right, over the end of the housing.

Make sure that the throttle grip isn't rubbing/binding on the throttle housing when you reassemble.

Pretty simple job, but messy.
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Re: How-to Master List

Postby TJSupercool » Sat Nov 08, 2008 1:31 pm

realwrld wrote:read through this:
http://www.yzf600r.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=47282&p=567390#p567390

To start, undo the throttle cable housing at the right handle bar to expose the cable ends:
Slide the rubber boot to the left. You may need to squirt a little lube onto the cables/into the boot to ease sliding the boot over.
Remove the two phillips head screws on the back of the throttle housing (don't lose them).
You should now be able to separate the two halves of the throttle hosing.
Set the two halves aside.
Remove the cable ends from the throttle tube (grip) assembly "wheel". Pay attention to which cable goes where.

Lube the two cables.
Squirt some lube down the inside of the cables. The lube will run out the other ends, on top of the carb assembly (where you won't be able to see it unless you've got the fuel tank/air filter assembly off, or stand on your head to look up into the engine area at the back of the 2 center cylinders).

Work the cables in and out each time you squirt lube in, to make sure they're getting lubed from one end to the other.

The baggie method of lubrication would probably work just fine, too. Even one of those fancy-schamcy cable lube gizmo's would work. I'm a CAPP so I just cram the straw betwen the cable and sheath and squirt away - a little bit at a time, several times.

Reassemble in reverse order:
Put the cable ends back into the throttle grip assembly "wheel"- make sure you put the correct cable end in the correct place.
Place (hold) the front half (the half nearest the rider's position) of the housing back on the handle bar.
Place the throttle tube assembly/cables back into that half.
(and don't break off the little plastic tabs on the curved ends of the cable sheaths)
Place the other half of the housing over the throttle grip assembly/cables.
(you might wish you had three hands at this point)
The housing only goes back onto the handle bar a certain way, as there's locating pins/holes to guide you. You might have to rotate the assembly to get everything to the right place.
It's not necessary to force the fit, at all.
Replace the two screws on the back of the housing.
Slide the rubber boot back to the right, over the end of the housing.

Make sure that the throttle grip isn't rubbing/binding on the throttle housing when you reassemble.

Pretty simple job, but messy.


:+1 :ok :D

Will do!!
1997 YZF600R
Micron Slipon
Illumiglo gauges (white with blue/red lights)
MRA Black Double Bubble racing windscreen

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4gPp9y5A_LWb25sbFA0TEFRMXM/view?usp=sharing
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Re: How-to Master List

Postby 97catintenn » Mon Apr 06, 2009 8:45 pm

Breaking Chain, Motion Pro tool...

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=30889
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Mid's Fork seal/springs install

Postby KBacon » Mon Jul 06, 2009 2:06 pm

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Re: How-to Master List

Postby majicmike » Thu Sep 24, 2009 3:29 pm

:+1 Great post guys, I did my first inline carb cleaning with no problems. yall had addressed almost everything
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Re: How-to Master List

Postby tdah73 » Fri Nov 20, 2009 5:44 pm

locking this down. if you have new how-to's that need to be added, please please please send them to me in a PM as i asked for several times in this thread (that no one is paying attention to). i just looked and saw a few links that were put in here 6 months ago.
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Many of your YZF600R forum questions can be answered here :)
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